Ficus Benjamina as Bonsai
If you do not see this picture, please let me know and I will fix it.
This old Chinese bonsai, a small-leaved weeping fig Ficus benjamina,
height about 97cm, age about 45 years, is part of the collection belonging to
Mr. Pin Kewpaisal of Bangkok, Thailand. In a temperate climate this type of
bonsai is only suitable for indoors.
Pruning
When pruning reduce to no less than 1 or 2 leave pairs. I recommend waiting
until more leaf pairs are present before pruning. It has been my experience that
growth at the tip of a branch may be stunted, if you prune back to two
leaf pairs as in the illustration without waiting for more leaf pairs to develop
on the branch.
Always prune in leaf pairs. When done you should have an even number of
individual leafs. In the illustration, four leafs are left on the branch.

My preference is to prune mid-point between leaf pairs, as in point B in the
illustration. I believe pruning at point A is too close to the area where new
shoots develop. The pruned end will dry out damaging the shoot area. Yet,
pruning close to the leaf stem can be an effective way to stop the growth of a
branch tip and force new shoots on other parts of the branch.

The following information regarding Ficus spp is taken from Bonsai: the
complete guide to art and technique. The book doesn't really discuss taking
care of Ficus bonsai, but does provide some general information.
| Species |
Ficus spp
Fig tree species
Moraceae |
| Description |
evergreen, tropical deciduous tree, the small-leaved species being
suitable for bonsai training |
| Branch pruning |
at all times |
| Pinching out |
prune back new shoots repeatedly to 2-3 leaves
leaf pairs. |
| Wiring |
at all times, but only for 3 months at the most |
| Repotting |
in spring, every 2 years |
| Sitting |
indoors not below 18?C |
| Hardiness |
protect from frost |
| Watering |
not too much |
| Feeding |
spring and mid-summer every 4 weeks |
| pH |
5.5-6.0 |
Fig species, Ficus benjamina, F. retusa, F. deltoidea and
others
Native to South and South-East Asia: The evergreen,
small-leaved fig tree species are particularly good for bonsai training as they
produce sturdy trunks, a nicely branching shape and shiny, leathery, small
leaves. Any bonsai style is possible. New shoots should be repeatedly be pruned
back to two or three pairs of leaves; the woody branches and trunk should be
wired only loosely, for even after three months the wire may already be cutting
into the bark. A nicely branching crown can be achieved as in hardwoods by
pruning the leaves in early summer; in addition, the leaves that subsequently
grow will be smaller than the ones removed.
Sitting: All year round at a bright window location, but no
in the full glare of the sun; the brighter the location, the more compact the
growth. Avoid sharp changes in temperature and draughts. In winter do not allow
the temperature to drop below 18?C.
Watering: In summer during the growing period water
profusely, but if kept in a cooler site use somewhat less water; do not keep too
moist in winter during the resting period.
Feeding: Liquid fertilizer after the shoots appear to the
end of summer.
Repotting: Every two years, in spring.
Soil: Commercially available garden compost that is
permeable to water and rich in humus is ideal for fig trees.
Propagation: Seeds and cuttings.
Other popular tropical plants are Ficus glomerata, F. diversifolia, F.
nerifolia, Gardenia jasminoides and Polyscias fruticosa.
Sources
Bonsai: the complete guide to art and technique
Yellow Leaf Comments
I am no expert. I have had my Ficus tree for maybe fifteen years. If any body
knows how to not take care of a tree then it is me. Over the years I have
developed experience in regards to leave drop of yellow leaves and will share my
comments.
Ficus trees are sensitive to their environment. For example, I went on
vacation during the summer for five days and closed the blinds to keep the house
cool while I was gone. My Ficus tree "freaked" out and lost five
handful of leaves while I was gone. (Over half the leaves.) I opened the blinds
and the leave drop stopped, but even a week later I am still losing leaves.
(This is a tree that has been extremely hardy in the past. It has never dropped
leaves. I was totally surprise it drop leaves in such a short time. Let alone
five handfuls.)
Once a Ficus leave turns yellow, it will not turn green again.
Therefore, if you have changed the environment and your tree is dropping
leaves, I suggest you put the tree back into its original environment. Then
slowly adjust the tree to its new environment. For instance, I have been moving
another Ficus tree I have, farther and farther away from the window. I have it
on a foot stool and every few weeks I move it a couple of feet. (This tree does
nothing but drop it leaves. I think the soil is the problem and not the
environment, but I am trying to get it away from too much light first.)
If your tree is dropping leaves and you did not change the tree's environment
then it might be possible the tree is getting too much or too little water or
light, or maybe the soil is exhausted and it just needs diluted fertilizer.
In my opinion, if you have massive leave drop, as in losing twenty to thirty
leaves a day, then it is environment. If you have occasional leave drop, as in
one or two a week, then it is normal, the tree is shedding old leaves. If you
have significant leave drop, as in ten to twenty leaves a week, then I think it
is a care issue.
But, like I said, I am no expert.
Created: 25 Oct 2002 17:50:37 -0700 Changed: 25 Oct 2002 17:50:37 -0700 |