Ficus Benjamina as Bonsai

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This old Chinese bonsai, a small-leaved weeping fig Ficus benjamina, height about 97cm, age about 45 years, is part of the collection belonging to Mr. Pin Kewpaisal of Bangkok, Thailand. In a temperate climate this type of bonsai is only suitable for indoors.

Pruning

When pruning reduce to no less than 1 or 2 leave pairs. I recommend waiting until more leaf pairs are present before pruning. It has been my experience that growth at the tip of a branch may be stunted,  if you prune back to two leaf pairs as in the illustration without waiting for more leaf pairs to develop on the branch.

Always prune in leaf pairs. When done you should have an even number of individual leafs. In the illustration, four leafs are left on the branch.

Pruning leaf pairs on Ficus benjamnia

My preference is to prune mid-point between leaf pairs, as in point B in the illustration. I believe pruning at point A is too close to the area where new shoots develop. The pruned end will dry out damaging the shoot area. Yet, pruning close to the leaf stem can be an effective way to stop the growth of a branch tip and force new shoots on other parts of the branch.

Pruning points for leaf pairs on Ficus benjamnia

The following information regarding Ficus spp is taken from Bonsai: the complete guide to art and technique. The book doesn't really discuss taking care of Ficus bonsai, but does provide some general information.

Species   Ficus spp
Fig tree species
Moraceae
Description evergreen, tropical deciduous tree, the small-leaved species being suitable for bonsai training
Branch pruning at all times
Pinching out prune back new shoots repeatedly to 2-3 leaves leaf pairs.
Wiring at all times, but only for 3 months at the most
Repotting in spring, every 2 years
Sitting indoors not below 18?C
Hardiness protect from frost
Watering not too much
Feeding spring and mid-summer every 4 weeks
pH 5.5-6.0

Fig species, Ficus benjamina, F. retusa, F. deltoidea and others

Native to South and South-East Asia: The evergreen, small-leaved fig tree species are particularly good for bonsai training as they produce sturdy trunks, a nicely branching shape and shiny, leathery, small leaves. Any bonsai style is possible. New shoots should be repeatedly be pruned back to two or three pairs of leaves; the woody branches and trunk should be wired only loosely, for even after three months the wire may already be cutting into the bark. A nicely branching crown can be achieved as in hardwoods by pruning the leaves in early summer; in addition, the leaves that subsequently grow will be smaller than the ones removed.

Sitting: All year round at a bright window location, but no in the full glare of the sun; the brighter the location, the more compact the growth. Avoid sharp changes in temperature and draughts. In winter do not allow the temperature to drop below 18?C.

Watering: In summer during the growing period water profusely, but if kept in a cooler site use somewhat less water; do not keep too moist in winter during the resting period.

Feeding: Liquid fertilizer after the shoots appear to the end of summer.

Repotting: Every two years, in spring.

Soil: Commercially available garden compost that is permeable to water and rich in humus is ideal for fig trees.

Propagation: Seeds and cuttings.

Other popular tropical plants are Ficus glomerata, F. diversifolia, F. nerifolia, Gardenia jasminoides and Polyscias fruticosa.

Sources

Bonsai: the complete guide to art and technique

Yellow Leaf Comments

I am no expert. I have had my Ficus tree for maybe fifteen years. If any body knows how to not take care of a tree then it is me. Over the years I have developed experience in regards to leave drop of yellow leaves and will share my comments.

Ficus trees are sensitive to their environment. For example, I went on vacation during the summer for five days and closed the blinds to keep the house cool while I was gone. My Ficus tree "freaked" out and lost five handful of leaves while I was gone. (Over half the leaves.) I opened the blinds and the leave drop stopped, but even a week later I am still losing leaves. (This is a tree that has been extremely hardy in the past. It has never dropped leaves. I was totally surprise it drop leaves in such a short time. Let alone five handfuls.)

Once a Ficus leave turns yellow, it will not turn green again.

Therefore, if you have changed the environment and your tree is dropping leaves, I suggest you put the tree back into its original environment. Then slowly adjust the tree to its new environment. For instance, I have been moving another Ficus tree I have, farther and farther away from the window. I have it on a foot stool and every few weeks I move it a couple of feet. (This tree does nothing but drop it leaves. I think the soil is the problem and not the environment, but I am trying to get it away from too much light first.)

If your tree is dropping leaves and you did not change the tree's environment then it might be possible the tree is getting too much or too little water or light, or maybe the soil is exhausted and it just needs diluted fertilizer.

In my opinion, if you have massive leave drop, as in losing twenty to thirty leaves a day, then it is environment. If you have occasional leave drop, as in one or two a week, then it is normal, the tree is shedding old leaves. If you have significant leave drop, as in ten to twenty leaves a week, then I think it is a care issue.

But, like I said, I am no expert.

Created: 25 Oct 2002 17:50:37 -0700
Changed: 25 Oct 2002 17:50:37 -0700

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